Surfing

Catching the wave

It’s peak season at Sydney University and the final assessments are coming hard and fast regardless of the course you’re undertaking. Therefore, my classmates and I decided to take a break from studying for exams and writing essays to do something fun. As the weather slowly warms up, we all decided to learn how to surf at Manly beach and it was good we got to do it as a group as we’re all beginners and can proceed at the same level.

Before I started my lesson, I tried to learn a bit about the basics and foundations of surfing. That’s when I came across a really cool video with clear, simple instructions of what to do. What I like about this video is her instruction is specifically geared towards girls who want to learn to surf. Check it out:

On the day itself, about 30 of us rocked up at the surfing school where we met our instructors (Alex, Nate & Bud) who gave us our wet suits and boards. Although the day was sunny, it was cold and windy which meant the waves were big and at times, about 10 feet high. All very daunting for someone learning to surf for the first time! Anyways, after squeezing myself in my wet suit (yes, I didn’t think getting into a wet suit would be SO hard as it’s SO tight); I was nevertheless thankful for it once we got into the water which was freezing!

However, before we got into the water our instructors gathered us in a circle where they taught us how to paddle out, look for the wave then catch it. We had to do a few leg and arm stretches to warm up our body and muscles then lie on our boards and jump up on the correct position. Too close to the nose of the board and you could fall in head first, too close to the tail and the board could flip up. It all came down to balance and finding your middle ground (literally!). After going through a few exercises, it was time to hit the water!

We were told to look out for rips (pockets in the water that could pull you under) and were dangerous to surf in and to take notice of the Australian life guard flags scattered around the beach (in case you need help).

Once you were in the water, you had to keep your wits about you. First, you need to be aware of your surroundings and look out for other surfers and their boards. Then it was time to paddle out to catch the wave. This was by far my hardest obstacle. Just looking at the waves breaking then rising up like a giant tsunami coming towards you was enough for me to stay on my board instead of catching it. Realising I needed to snap out of my fear, I turned my board towards the shore, climbed on and started paddling as I’d been taught waiting for the wave to catch me. Next thing I knew, I felt a massive ‘push’ beneath me and knew it was time to get up which I did gingerly and before I knew it – I was surfing!! Wow! what a rush and I made myself fall off my board before I got too close to shore.

I did this a few more times and realised I can get on the board ok and have a pretty good sense of balance. What I need to work on is my fear of catching the wave and how to end my ride. But this all takes practice and one thing we all learnt at the end of the day – we are now all addicted to surfing. So, once assignments and exams are over – next stop, the beach!

Advertisement